[ ARTICHOKE ]
Pablo Neruda famously described the artichoke as "girded for battle, burnished as a grenade," but don't let its spiky exterior deter you.
Artichoke
A delicacy since Ancient Rome, the artichoke has long signaled the arrival of spring. From March through May, globe artichokes are at their peak—though if you’re lucky, heirloom varieties like chianti or poivrade may make an appearance.
Look for tightly layered leaves and minimal browning; those are the freshest. And once you’ve found them, don’t wait—artichokes are best cooked within a day or two, while their flavor is still green, floral, and full of life.
Artichoke Basics
Like most good things, artichokes take a little tending.
Start by rinsing them under cool water, letting the outer layers release any dust or garden grit. Use kitchen shears to gently snip off the thorny tips of the leaves. With a sharp knife, trim about an inch from the top to soften its silhouette.
Leave about an inch of stem attached—or peel it fully if you prefer a more tender bite. To prevent browning, rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice or rest the artichokes cut-side down in a bowl of lemon water while you prep the rest.
WAYS TO COOK:
Steaming: Place the artichokes stem-side down in a steamer basket over boiling water. Cover and steam for 25-45 minutes, depending on size.
Boiling: Submerge artichokes in a pot of boiling salted water. Boil for 25-45 minutes.
Grilling: Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise, remove the choke, brush with oil, and grill cut-side down for about 15 minutes.
Roasting: Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Cut the artichokes in half, remove the choke, drizzle with oil, and roast cut-side down for about 30 minutes.
Cooling: Allow the artichokes to cool slightly before handling.
WAYS TO EAT:
To eat: Gently pull the leaves one by one, dipping the base in aioli, melted butter, or a lemony vinaigrette. Scrape the tender flesh with your teeth, and continue inward.
When you reach the heart, use a spoon to remove the fuzzy choke—then pause. This is the good part. Slice, dip, or savor as-is.
White Wine Braised Artichokes
4 medium artichokes (serves 6-8)
7 lemons, divided
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup white wine
Water, as needed
Flakey salt, for garnish
Fill a large mixing bowl halfway with cold water and juice from 3 lemons. Slice the remaining lemon and set aside.
Prepare the artichokes by removing tough outer leaves, trimming the stem, and cutting off the top. Cut artichokes in half and rub with lemon juice to prevent browning.
Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Place artichokes cut side down and cook for 3-4 minutes until browned.
Add garlic, white wine, and reserved lemon juice around the artichokes. Add lemon slices and water to cover ¾ of the artichokes.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for about 20 minutes or until tender when pierced with a knife.
Remove the inedible choke from the center of each artichoke half.
Transfer cooked artichokes to a serving platter, sprinkle with flakey salt, and serve warm or at room temperature with the chilled Lemon Tarragon Aioli for dipping.
Lemon Tarragon Aioli
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon lemon juice (adjust to taste)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon warm water
5 sprigs tarragon, leaves chopped
In a blender or food processor, combine egg yolk, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Blend for 10 seconds. With the blender running, slowly drizzle in olive oil, until a smooth mayonnaise consistency is achieved.
Stir in chopped tarragon. Season with additional lemon juice, salt, or pepper as desired. Chill the aioli while preparing the artichokes.
Artichoke Risotto with Pancetta and Pecorino
2 cups Arborio rice
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup finely sliced dinosaur kale
1 cup marinated artichoke hearts, chopped
100g pancetta (or prosciutto), thinly sliced and chopped
1/2 cup Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish
Start by heating the broth in a saucepan over low heat to keep it warm. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic until softened, about 2-3 minutes. Add the Arborio rice to the skillet, toasting it for 2 minutes while stirring constantly, until the grains are lightly toasted and coated in oil. Pour in the dry white wine, stirring continuously until the wine is absorbed by the rice. Gradually add the warm broth to the rice mixture, one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently and allowing each addition of broth to be absorbed before adding more. Continue this process until the rice is creamy and cooked al dente, which should take about 18-20 minutes.
While the risotto is cooking, heat a separate skillet over medium-high heat and cook the pancetta until crispy, about 3-4 minutes, then set aside. Halfway through the cooking process of the risotto, stir in the finely sliced dinosaur kale, allowing it to wilt and cook with the rice. Once the risotto reaches your desired consistency, stir in the chopped artichoke hearts and crispy pancetta. Add the grated Pecorino Romano cheese and heavy cream (if using), stirring until the cheese is melted and the cream is fully incorporated. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Remove the risotto from the heat and let it rest for a minute or two to allow the flavors to meld together. Serve in individual bowls, garnished with freshly chopped parsley for a burst of freshness.
Charred Artichokes & Preserved Lemon Aioli
1 lemon, halved
4 medium artichokes
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 anchovy fillets, minced
1/2 cup plain dry bread crumbs
1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, minced
1/2 tablespoon capers, rinsed and minced
Preserved lemon aioli (see recipe below)
Prepare the artichokes by squeezing the juice of one lemon half into a bowl of water. Remove the outer leaves, trim the top and stem, and halve the artichokes lengthwise. Rub with the remaining lemon half, and place in the lemon water.
Preheat your grill to medium-high heat. Boil the artichoke halves in simmering water until barely tender, about 7 minutes. Drain well and pat dry. Remove the furry choke using a spoon. In a skillet, heat a generous amount of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the minced garlic and cook until golden. Remove and discard the garlic, then stir in the minced anchovies until dissolved.
Brush the artichokes with the garlic-anchovy oil and place them cut side down on the grill. Grill until charred and crusty, about 3-4 minutes, then flip and grill for another 2-3 minutes.
In a bowl, mix the bread crumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the remaining garlic-anchovy oil. Season with salt and pepper. In another bowl, combine the minced olives and capers with a pinch of pepper. Fill the grilled artichoke halves with the olive mixture and top with the bread crumb mixture.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the charred artichokes with a dollop of preserved lemon aioli.
Preserved Lemon Aioli
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon preserved lemon, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
In a blender or food processor, combine egg yolk, Dijon mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper. Blend for 10 seconds. With the blender running, slowly drizzle in olive oil, until a smooth mayonnaise consistency is achieved.
Stir in preserved lemon and season with additional lemon juice, salt, or pepper as desired. Chill the aioli while preparing the artichokes.
